A Knack To Making Dashi - Flavored 'tamagoyaki'

A knack to making dashi-flavored 'tamagoyaki'Although maize-colored, dashi-based "tamagoyaki" (rolled omelette) is a star in Kansai cuisine, it isn't exactly easy to roll.
“It could be difficult if a lot of dashi stock is used. But there is a knack to it. Leave it to me,” says Junichi Doi with a smile.
The 41-year-old Doi is the fourth-generation proprietor of Konbu Doi (Chuo Ward, Osaka City), a store selling dried kelp on the Karahori Shopping Street near Osaka Castle.

When made by professionals, the tamagoyaki turn out fluffy and rich in stock.

“At home, just reduce the amount of stock but make it stronger,” he says.

Since a third of the usual amount of stock is used in this recipe, Doi suggests making the stock three times stronger.

If 10 grams of dried kelp is usually used per liter water, 30 grams should be used. Likewise, you should have 30 grams of dried bonito shavings. Leftover stock may be incorporated into other dishes.

The tamagoyaki should be cooked with tempo. The right amount of mixture that just about covers the surface of the tamagoyaki pan should be poured in.

When air bubbles form and the surface starts to dry, roll away from you. Once rolled, pull the egg roll to you and apply oil with brush to the open space. A key is to lift the rolled egg and allow the second mixture to flow underneath.

“I roll away from me, but others roll toward them,” says Doi.

Ideally, the dashi-based tamagoyaki should not be burned golden but turn out shiny and fresh-looking. When you take a bite while still hot, the sweetness of the egg and the flavor of the stock will soothe your palate.

Are you bothered by the remaining cooked kelp? Here is where the “frugal spirit of Osaka” shines. You could cut it into fine strips and add to salads, or stir-fry with burdock roots. Its texture will be enhanced by immersing in vinegar. Strips of cooked kelp mixed with drops of balsamic vinegar and soy sauce will make a nice accompaniment to sake.

Kelp may be an unsung hero. But its use is immense.


Serves two:

3 eggs

75 cc strong kelp-bonito shaving stock

A pinch of salt

Few drops of soy sauce

1 Tbsp cooking oil


Break eggs in bowl and mix lightly. Add stock, salt and soy sauce and mix.

Heat tamagoyaki pan well, pour oil and let it cover the entire pan. Remove excess oil in a small dish.

Pour in egg mixture thinly to cover entire pan. Once bubbles form, roll away from you. Brush oil that has been set aside on open space. Pour in egg mixture and roll to form layers. Repeat several times until all the mixture is used.